Niall's Travel Blog

One Day, Four Countries

From Katima we drove to the Botswanan border where we had to go through a Foot and Mouth disease check, a relic of the UK disaster. There was no hassle at the border post and we drive through the Chobe National Park to the last town before the Zim border. We stop to top up our tank but baulk at the two hour long queue - a sign of things to come with severe fuel shortages in Zimbabwe!

My three year old guide book told me that Zimbabwean visas were free for Irish citizens, a fact I used to slag Frank for not being Irish. So I strut into the the Zim border post, full of national pride, when I am shocked to hear the official tell me that not only did I have to pay for a visa but, furthermore, at almost double the rate of the other E.U. countries! Initially I refuse to believe him, thinking he's trying to pocket some cash but after much insistence he tells me that this visa exemption was revoked last year.

Frank, laughing at this turn of events (deservedly, I must admit!), goes to pay customs for the car, a US$16 charge. Knowing there would be a 30 dollar charge for insurance he hands the official a fifty expecting $34 in change. He takes about two minutes to count and recount the change slowly and then promptly places it on the floor behind the counter upon which he rests his hands with a faint smile. After a pause Frank asks "What about my change?" to which the reply was "I already gave you your change"! This dialogue was repeated three or four times before the official, recognising we were not giving up, looks to the ground with a surprised expression, picks up the change and says "Can I keep it?"!?

After grabbing the change we drive 20km before being stopped by the police who told us they were looking for Zimbabwean currency. When we said we had just arrived and had no cash they proceeded to search our bags. Instantly assuming they were trying to supplement their meagre (and oft unpaid) incomes I started to sweat that they would find my US$500 but managed to conceal it before they searched my things. Satisfied that we had nothing we passed through with a sigh of relief... if our first hour in Zimbabwe was anything to go by we were in for a tough time!

After settling in our hostel I crossed over to Zambia to see their side of the falls and the Natural Wonder did not disappoint. It was incredible how much water flowed over those cliff, even though it wasn't anywhere near the peak season flow. The water was being kicked back up so that there was a fine rain coming horizontally and from below. This mean that the rainbows were inverted producing a fantastic effect. After a hectic day I was delighte to have dinner back at the hostel I was delighted to have dinner back at the hotel, watch a film and hit the sack.

posted by Niall at 11:03 a.m.