Back Roads to Padova
While getting lost on trying to get
out of Bergamo's suburbs, I vow to quit the busy roadways of Lombardy and forgo some time by taking a detour to Lake Iseo and Garda further north. Iseo is beautiful and I stop for lunch at a restaurant overlooking the lake, sitting on a bench afterwards for an hour to digest, read and write in the sunshine. I decide to take an even longer detour, even though there are mountains in the way, to encompass more of Lake Garda the next day. The climbing is tough going but worth it for the spectacular panoramic views of Lake Iseo, mountains and forests. I pull off road into a s
teep river valley forest to camp. My camping stove fails to get going - I'm not sure whether this is due to the altitude or my not cleaning it properly - and I have to make do with a bowl of cereal and a kiwi. The slope of the valley did not make for the most comfortable night's sleep as I rest at an angle of about 20 degrees with my feet against a tree trunk to stop my falling down the valley. Even still, I'm in great spirits and enjoy reading in the silence of the forest, the incline helping me to avoid neck strain.Wake up to a second helping of cereal and kiwi and start the day's travels with another 40 minutes of climbing to
reach a 900m high pass. The great thing about going up is that you know at some point you have to go down and this downhill is stunning, following the path of a river where I passed locals spending their Saturday canoeing, tending to their gardens and fly fishing. En route to Lake Garda I have to traverse some long tunnels. Thankful as I am to skip climbing over the hills they cut through, these things are scary. Ranging from one to two kilometres long, the one lane you have to share with the frequently passing super trucks can put you slightly on edge. If you add to this the practice of pumping fresh air halfway down the tunnel at sufficient speed to 
make the bike difficult to control, it all combines for a pretty terrifying experience. Now I know what light at the end of the tunnel really means.The rest of the day is more relaxed, pleasantly following the contours of Lake Garda with views of the snow capped mountains on the far side and pulling into Verona about 5pm. I walk around and take some photos of the colosseum followed by a search for some
cheap accommodation but to no avail, the cheapest hotels being in the €60-80 range. I cycle a bit out of town, blatantly ignoring some of the bicycle not permitted signs (If I always followed these, I would still be trying to get out of Bergamo) and setting up camp in a field of long grass off the road, making for a comfortable bed with the sound of the odd passing car soothing me to sleep.In the morning I take the back roads to Padova through the famous Soave vineyards which affords some stunning views. I pull up mid day and cook some pasta, the stove thankfully resuming operation, for some much needed energy. The kilometres and hours are now flying past effortlessly, my confidence about the future of the trip sky-high as I roll into Padova.
posted by Niall at
2:20 p.m.
4 comment(s):
Niall, this is incredible. Last time I attempted to ride a bike I threw up after 10mins (despite 5mins of it being downhill).
Seriously though, it sounds like an amazing experience and I wish you the best of luck with it. I'll keep checking your blog so keep it updated.
By
Unknown, at
3:46 p.m.
Niall,
You are one crazy bastard! And if that's not worthy of respect, I don't know what is!
I cycle a lot, so I'm particularly jealous. Finals starting in a fortnight- wanna swap places!? I hope you survive anyway, because it has the makings of some great stories I'd say.
Next time you go cycling, I'm coming!
God bless,
And watch out for those Stans
John (O'Toole)
By
Anonymous, at
4:08 p.m.
hey niall,
good luck with your trip...maybe c u somewhere on the road...if u want: www.beijingbiking.com
have fun and a save trip
daniel
By
Anonymous, at
3:48 p.m.
Heyo my brother, I hope to god you're taking millions of photos, sounds like the most amazing place up there in the mountains. I wish you all the best in world, hoping your stove gets sorted, or else you actually splash and buy some food! (kiwis can only take u so far!)Hope you're loving it too and congratulations on the 1000m milestone, that alone is ridiculously cool. Love you x Róisín xx
By
Little Rose Lady, at
3:14 p.m.
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